EBAY-Make Offer Strategy

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don money

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Hello,

I know that every EBAY seller is different...but I thought I would ask everyone if they have a particular strategy when it comes to the "make an offer" strategy. As a buyer, I was wondering where to start? For example, there is a $135 set that I am interested in. Is 75% a good starting point? It seems to be reasonable, but I am interested in everyone's perspective (buyers and sellers).

Thanks,

Chris
 
My offers are a little higher....My offer would be about $95.00. I try not to get the seller upset with a low bid...He or she might lock you out of their auctions. I try to keep in the ballpark. Happy Holidays, David
 
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It depends on how close to "reality' the seller starts and how popular the item is as well. I wouldn't necessarily worry about offering too little, because you never know what the seller expects to get for it. Maybe some ask a small percentage of what they want, some double their want price, while others go fishing for a sucker buyer.

For example, I just offered $9 on a mid 1970s Dodgers facsimile autograph baseball listed at $25. Offer was accepted. Some would shudder at a less than half offer, but obviously the seller was happy with it (it was only listed for less than 1 day) and I think he was asking a bit much at $25.

There is also an autographed card seller who counter offers or will accept $0.50 off his BIN price, regardless of the asking price. He has never taken less than 50 cents off where I have offered or bought.
 
I try 50 -60% below HBV..................$100 set, offer $30 or $35 plus S/H of $10...................How this helps.....................Mike
 
it doesnt hurt to offer you can always counter his refusal and go from there. just know the top price that you want to pay for it and see if you can get a deal. thats what this garage sale ebay used to be about.
 
I'm with mrmopar. I think using a percentage of whatever is silly. I know what an item is worth to me. Doesn't matter what bv is or what they ask for it, I offer what I'm willing to pay. And I don't limit myself to only items with a "make offer' option. I learned a long time ago that ANY item being sold directly by the owner, internet or face to face, is negotiable.
 
A perfect example.........Right after making that last post I headed over to ebay and these two listings popped up in a search I did. Both are fixed price, one can be had for $5.75 and the other for $27.99. If I had some percentage in mind based on the offered price or based on whether I might or might not insult the seller where would I be ? What would I do ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-Topps-...0707519489?pt=US_Baseball&hash=item35b73d6001

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-Topps-...0840243269?pt=US_Baseball&hash=item336b1ab045
 
Ebay

Recently piked up a card that seller had at $250 or best offer, offered $75 about a day and a half before auction ended and he accepted.
 
It depends on how close to "reality' the seller starts and how popular the item is as well.

This is very true. A few months ago I offered $1.50 for a Bob Wickman #d Topps Chrome Refractor. The seller wanted $3 and the card itself books for $3. The seller turned my offer down. This particular seller must not have had a good sense of reality.
 
I don't like Best offers for cards under $2. The price that they are willing to accept is basically the listing price. Cheap bastards.

Or maybe i'm the cheap bastard.
 
I always offer lower than I'm willing to pay because the seller will usually counter my offer no matter what I offer.
 
It is a crap shoot with me due to the variables: player, set, year, how bad I want it, condition (in the vintage buys), etc. I know people want to make money but am not going to pay more than I am willing to pay whether it is a BIN, Best Offer, straight bid, etc.

Dewayne
 
I try to offer an average of what the last few of the item sold for (or similar items) and if they don't accept it...well that is their problem. As someone that sells on eBay with the BIN Best Offer stuff every once in a while, I have a set idea of what I will accept and usually list the card for the highest final value and would be willing to accept as low as the lowest final value.

On really rare stuff you never know what the seller is thinking...
 
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