book value versus sale value...help me understand please!

[SymphonicMetal]

I don't do modern, so I can't speak to that. For vintage, I find that as long as the same guide is used for both ends of a trade, it should work out. If the trade is based on Beckett hi or Beckett lo or PSA Ex5 on both sides of the trade, it should end up being fair. Where it's unequal is when separate guides are used to judge value.

One thing I have noticed is that BV of '70s cards is consistently lower than what you can get at online auction. I'll be chasing a $20 card of a hof player in NM and it ends up going for 50, 60 or sometimes even three figures. And there are some common cards whose special interest the guides just don't take into account - like the Claude Raymond fly down, or Glenn Burke rc, or the '75 mvps, to name a few.

I had never heard of that Claude Raymond fly open card before. That is a riot! My Little League trip back in the day was to Jarry Park in Montreal and Raymond was the big favorite amongst the French speaking Expo fans whether his fly was open or not! LMAO!!!

 

[rlschles]

I've seen that '66 Raymond go for upwards of $75 raw in NM+.

 

[2000Doubles]

If I had to guess, price adjustments are based on flat percentages factoring in the player and the set...meaning they may raise all Ohtani prices X% and then bump an extra X% for Topps Chrome, X% for Topps flagship, etc. etc.

It's a flawed system, because you've got a specific starting point you're working from. I imagine there are some cards (especially higher-end sets) where they actually do market research, but for the most part, I'm guessing once the initial prices are set there's no turning back and they're unrealistic.

Was looking up some of my 2023 Topps chrome, I think for high end/big names they may have a formulaic approach. However, there is no way they do that across the checklist. Some of the names and book value pricing just doesn't make sense. I do scale pricing for work and could easily put together a better process for the non-high end to derive book values then what Beckett is doing

 

[t.rooster]

To further exemplify the crazy fluctuation of SV, check post #3....

https://thebenchtrading.com/threads/1991-stadium-club.484661/

 

[jmintz]

To further exemplify the crazy fluctuation of SV, check post #3....

https://thebenchtrading.com/threads/1991-stadium-club.484661/

Those aren't SV - they're what the boxes are listed at for sale. Not the same thing.

 

[88 Dezgirl 88]

Sorry to bring this thread back to life, but I found it intriguing since I just had to put that "I'm Trading By BV" in my signature since people have decided to suddenly start schooling me on SV.

For me, it's fairly simple. If I'm buying or selling, I'll go by most recent comps of SV. If I'm trading, especially since most of my trades are of the low-mid end variety, I go by BV.

Most of the reason is that 90% of what I trade for stays in my collection and isn't sold or traded after. Who cares what 'x' card is selling for if I'm not planning to sell it.

Interestingly, I've found that many (not all!) SV traders do so to gain more value in the item they're trading away. Not ONCE has a SV trader said "well, yours books for $3 but is selling for $20"

 

[SymphonicMetal]

Interestingly, I've found that many (not all!) SV traders do so to gain more value in the item they're trading away. Not ONCE has a SV trader said "well, yours books for $3 but is selling for $20"

No way! Not members on this site! Say it ain't so.

I for one would never do that! I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure you have a beautiful 1961 Fleer Don Meredith RC on your tradesite. When you trade that card to me, we will use BV or SV on it, whichever is lower. LMAO If you are the owner of that card you need to get it graded judging from its' picture.

I tend to agree that for most cards of moderate to low value, BV is the way to go. Graded cards and hot new cards SV is the more realistic way.

 

[Scobes]

Interestingly, I've found that many (not all!) SV traders do so to gain more value in the item they're trading away. Not ONCE has a SV trader said "well, yours books for $3 but is selling for $20"

I tend to agree that for most cards of moderate to low value, BV is the way to go. Graded cards and hot new cards SV is the more realistic way.

I feel that these two statements above are key points in the BV vs SV debate that are often overlooked.

Scobes

 

[88 Dezgirl 88]

No way! Not members on this site! Say it ain't so.

I for one would never do that! I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure you have a beautiful 1961 Fleer Don Meredith RC on your tradesite. When you trade that card to me, we will use BV or SV on it, whichever is lower. LMAO If you are the owner of that card you need to get it graded judging from its' picture.

I tend to agree that for most cards of moderate to low value, BV is the way to go. Graded cards and hot new cards SV is the more realistic way.

Actually...This site has always been a place where I've enjoyed trading the most because most of the traders I have met over the years still stick to BV. I understand where the hobby is right now is night and day from where it was pre-2020.

Usually, if I have something that's SV worthy, then I'm selling it.

That remains part of the beauty of the hobby is there really isn't a linear "right" way. I say all of that to say, BV is my personal preference for low-mid end stuff...and NOT opposed to trading based on SV if I know that's what I'm getting into up front.

 

[dragonslayer913]

I use 130pt.com it will show what a card actually sold for I find the last 5 sales of the cards toss out the lowest and highest and 3 remaining average them out so say a card has a averages sales of $30 I do a trade value of $50-$60 depending on player--I only use Beckett for low end
trades